Colorado in June is cold, windy, snowy, icy, and spectacular. And to be honest, I didn’t walk the entire 500 miles, but sometimes it sure felt close.
I planned to do a separate write-up for each of the days I was in the mountains, but it’s over a week since the trip and I’m just now starting the project. Rather than taking a month or three to write the posts, I think I’ll combine everything into one short post. I’m cutting out most of the details so sorry for the choppy writing. I’m an editor at my night job, but that ends when I leave work…
DAY 1 – Emerald Lake: Couldn’t sleep much the night before. Winds were blowing into our campsite in Moraine Park off the Rocky Mountains at a sustained 40 mph. When you’re sleeping two people in a 1.5 person tent (12 sq. feet?) with the tent threatening to blow away at any moment, you have a lot of time to think. Luckily I brought the French press coffee maker along and an extra strong coffee shook out the rough night with a cup of black.

Viewing the Rockies from Emerald Lake
We started the trip with an acclimatization hike from the Bear Lake trailhead. This is a relatively mild hike, starting out at 9,475 feet, and topping off at Emerald Lake. The trail was beginning the spring thaw out from the winter snows, and still had several feet of ice and snow throughout. Apparently this must be considered the most mild trail in the Rocky Mountains as we passed a family pushing/carrying on back a stroller through the boulders and snow. This did nothing to make the trail seem less like I was running a marathon on Everest. The views at the lake were spectacular; we even caught a few skiers making their way down the ridge from the mountains above. My friends living in CO say they ski 12 months of the year. I think I need to relocate.
DAY 2 – Loch Vale: Feeling a little more acclimated today. We drove up to another trailhead, Glacier Gorge, and began the long(er) hike up to Loch Vale. This trail passes by a few waterfalls and rapids before entering a long narrow canyon approaching the lakes. Just as we were about to enter the canyon, a storm blew in with blizzard winds and stinging sleet/hail. We took shelter under a boulder and held out for 30 minutes. After a few attempts at turning around and hiking down, we decided to push for the summit. A few minutes later, the sun came back out and the views returned. We reached Loch Vale and found ourselves staring into some of the strongest winds yet; luckily the sun was still out and the snow was holding off. And the incredible views of Loch Vale made up for any bad weather we’d endured to reach this point. We took a few ton of pictures, explored the valley, and then began the trek back down. Just in time too as another blizzard/sleet storm rolled in. Just as we reached the car, the sun rolled out and temperatures climbed. Like the locals say, ‘if you don’t like the weather, just wait 10 minutes’.
DAY 3 – Long’s Peak/Chasm Lake: Long’s peak is the only 14,000 foot mountain in the Rocky Mountain National park. I should preface this section with a note that my dad bought me a ‘Guide to Colorado’s 14ers’ book for my birthday. I’d used this book to plan my assault on this mountain for several weeks now. We started this trail and faced what seemed to be a never ending section of switchbacks. Seriously. These switchbacks were like hiking on a treadmill. Finally, we broke the treeline and started the hike up through the alpine wild flowers and snowfields. Long’s Peak was peaking out from behind the clouds above us and provided an inviting, if teasing, view. After several false summits, we reached a major intersection, only to be faced with the strongest storm yet. Since there wasn’t any lightening or thunder, we decided to press our luck and continue along the ridge.

In Colorado, it's always a long walk up
We came up to a section that stands out to me as the most daunting section of any hike I’ve ever attempted. It was almost on par with climbing up a cliff face, realizing you were stuck at the crux of some crucial move on the route, and then realizing you were climbing above your rope. Right before you fall off. Before us was a long, uninterrupted stretch of steeply angled snow slope. Above and below us was melting snow, with mini-avalanches crashing down from the cliffs above every few seconds. With no rocks to hold onto, no ropes to protect in case of a fall, and nothing but tennis shoes, we set off across the face. You really couldn’t stop anywhere along this route since you were completely exposed. At any second, one of the avalanches above could come crashing down on you, sweeping you down the snow face and into the waterfall cave below. I don’t think I looked up (or down), or even away from my feet for the entire 372 steps across the slope. We made it, no problems.

Crossing the ridge below Long's Peak. You can see some of the ice crashing down near the top of this shot.
The last part of this trail involved a climb up a 35 degree ice and snow wall to reach the Loch Vale. Again, we had no gear for climbing the ice; just our tennis shoes. After kick-stepping our way up the ice face, we reached the summit (Loch Vale) which sits at around 12,000 feet. The sheer cliff walls of Long’s Peak stood before us, along with a fresh storm. At this point, we knew there was no chance of making it up the final 2,000 feet and 4 miles of Long’s Peak, so we enjoyed the incredible views of Chasm Lake, and watched the fog rolling up the valley covering our tracks. One day, I will return and conquer this mountain.
DAY 4 – Ute Ridge Trail: The Ute Ridge trail starts out at 11,400 feet and runs almost flat along a high ridge. With no trees to block the views, you’re surrounded by spectacular scenes from the Rocky Mountains. Everywhere you look is wide open views of awesome. This was a pretty short hike compared to the rest. Saw some wildlife, cool rocks (if I went back to school now, I’d study geology) and lots of snow. The last two miles of the return trip involved a white out blizzard and lots of stairing at my feet. When it stopped, we had about a minute to get pictures before everything suddenly melted. I managed one shot of slush.
DAY 5-6 – Dude Ranch and Loveland Pass: Cutting the sleeping in a tent portion of the trip short, we decided to roadtrip through Colorado and visit my dad’s friend’s Dude Ranch. This is a high class ranch; think ‘City Slickers’. I met a (one of) former managing editor for the Chicago Sun Times, a pediatric cardiologist, and a couple from the UK who had just returned from Peru, New Zealand, Thailand, Nepal and several other locales. Needless to say, I realized I will need to find a new job before I can ever dream of taking vacations like theirs. On the drive back towards Denver, we pulled off at Loveland Pass. I’d done this hike once before but that was in Winter, wearing full ski regalia.

Friendly wildlife
This trip started out a lot warmer and I quickly realized I was carrying way too much gear 30 minutes into the hike. We reached the first summit, 12,015 feet, after one mile and took a quick rest stop. From here, it was down and up another ridge to a 13,000 foot mini-summit called ‘Cupid’ with great views of Gray’s and Torrey’s Peaks (both 14′ers). Again, forced to turn back from our 2nd 14er summit attempt by weather, we retraced our steps back down the mountain. Lucky for us, there wasn’t any lightening with this storm as we were stuck high on the ridge for the majority of the hike. The wind blew, the sleet and ice flew, the temps dropped, and I was thankful for all the extra gear I was hauling around. As we neared the bottom, we skied (in tennis shoes) down the last few snow slopes. Again, I was reminded of how I need to relocate to the mountains.
A ‘miscellaneous’ photo album of pictures from driving around the park between the hikes can be found here.
Colorado, I will return.

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